The Book of Surfing电子书

Cover

Title Page

Contents

Introduction

The perfect wave

Anatomy of a wave

Ron Church

Anatomy of a board

Dudish deconstructed

Surf spot: Malibu

Reading the spot

Duke Kahanamoku

The ride

Classic surf wagon: The Woody

How to read a pressure chart

Technique one: Paddling

Classic surf movies: The Endless Summer/Five Summer Stories

Why Hawaii?

LeRoy Grannis

Tom Blake

Milestones in surfboard design

Classic surf trip: East Coast Australia

Where do waves come from?

Big-wave pioneers

Which board? The fish/The longboard

John Severson

Technique two: The take-off

The surf T-shirt

Which type of wave? Beachbreak

Ron Stoner

Miki Dora

Surf travel essentials

Rick Griffin

Surf spot: Mundaka

The feral surfer

Phil Edwards

The surfer’s code

Technique three: The bottom turn

The history of the wetsuit

Local conditions

The leash

The surf shop

Classic surf wagon: VW Transporter

Butch Van Artsdalen

Surf travel tips

Technique four: The top turn

Art Brewer

Surf music

How to build a board

Nat Young

The barrel

Classic surf trip: California

Technique five: The tube ride

Which board? The thruster/The standup paddleboard

Big-wave surfing

Classic surf movies: Morning of the Earth

Surfing hazards

Gerry Lopez

Which type of wave? Reefbreak

The aerial revolution

How to be a greener surfer

Surf trunks

The evolution of the fin

Jeff Divine

Brian Wilson

Surf spot: Noosa

Which type of wave? Pointbreak

Bunker Spreckels

How to throw the perfect beach party

Classic surf movies: Big Wednesday

Classic surf trip: North Coast Cornwall

Tom Curren

Surf wax

Classic longboarding

Classic surf movies Litmus

Ultimate surf food

The wipeout

Which board? The boogie board/The gun

Lisa Andersen

Localism

Which type of wave? Rivermouth

Laird Hamilton

Surf photography

Bill Morris

Technique six: The cutback

Classic surf trip: Southwest France

Which board? The spoon/The displacement hull

Kelly Slater

Surfing fitness

Technique seven: The aerial

Thomas Campbell

The surfer’s playlist

Joel Tudor

Surf spot: Banzai Pipeline

Glossary

Inspirations

How to choose your first board

Index

Acknowledgements

About the Author

Credits

Copyright

About the Publisher