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Front Matter
Title Page
Publisher Information
Preface and Acknowledgements
Introduction - Thoroughfare and Nation
Birth and Rebirth of a Nation
Portbou and Montserrat: Sea and Mountain
Ghost Town
Stephen Spender’s Divided Heart
Trapped: Walter Benjamin’s Last Night
Dark Lady of the Mountains: Montserrat
Mediterranean, the Centre of the Earth: Tarragona
The City that Speaks Latin
Empúries: “whispering centuries of ghosts”
Wetlands: the Empordà
Romanesque Catalonia: The Pyrenees
Hispanic Marches
Barrel Vaults and Towers
The Boí Valley
Besalú and Girona: the Jewish Tragedy
Glory and Rapine: Poblet and Athens
“A great feudal monastery”
Peace and Conquest
Imperial Rapine
The Poet-Priest and the Indiano: Verdaguer and Antonio López
The Renaissance
Peasant Son and Poet
Triumph and Fall
The Slave-Trading Philanthropist
The Lancashire of Spain: Gaudí and Güell
Putting out the Fires of Revolt
Indianos
Santa Coloma Colony
The Chapel in the Woods
Geniuses
Fleeing the Straight and Narrow: Gaudí and Reus
Reus: Wealth in Stone
Gaudí
Gaudí’s Reputation
Palau Güell
Sant Pau and the Sagrada Família
The Birth of Modern Painting: Rusiñol at Sitges, Casas and Pablo Picasso
The Iron Burrow
Darwin’s Monkey
The Vertical Invader
The Terminal Beach: Salvador Dalí
Castle and Theatre: Figueres
Ambivalent Legacy
Cadaqués
Feet Rooted to the Red Earth: Joan Miró
The Man Who Could Not Draw
Fundació Miró
I Come from a Silence: Catalan Music
Raimon
Chimes to the Dead
Traditional Roots
Yearning Havanera and Sexy Rumba
Tourism and War
The Sweaty Groin: Barcelona’s Raval
Chinatown
Squalor and Gentrification
Rambling
The Gothic Quarter, Barcelona
The Museum-City
Cathedral and Cloister
Plaça del Rei
Santa Maria del Mar
Mass Migration and Mass Tourism: Lloret
Contested Spaces
City of Noise
Package Holidays and the Changing Costa Brava
Lloret
Plain and River: Lleida and the Ebro
City of the Plain
Mequinensa: Drowned Town
Yellow Fog along the Ebro Valley
A Dying Delta
The Anarchist Dream: George Orwell and Revolution
Rose of Fire
Revolutionary Days: Orwell in Catalonia
Crushing the Revolution
The Landscape in the Pot: Food, Drink and Identity
Cava
Catalan Cuisine
The Boqueria: the Religion of Food
The Dalí of Cuisine
Cradle and Refuge: FC Barcelona
Triumph and Tragedy
Football and Nationalism
Catalonia is not Spain
End Matter
Further Reading
Glossary
Also Available
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